Sheldon Landwehr: Scoup du Jour

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The Landwehr Report

July 18, 2006

Success does not necessarily mean excellence, especially where popular dining destination like Park Avenue South restaurants are concerned. Again location, location, location is the key. Because Barna Restaurant which opened last year is so well situated in the Hotel Giraffe (365 Park Avenue South -- (212) 532-8300), it is worth designing a strategy that makes eating there a satisfactory possibility.

Several dining regions incorporate a warm, candlelit main dining room hosting 90. Adjacent is a convivial dining and drinking lounge seating 70. Both are ensconced downstairs. Then there's an airy 700 square foot retreat labeled Barna's Rooftop Deck, and of course, there's the provable Sidewalk Cafe. Fundamentally, each facility is packed during prime times. The most commendable ingredient is the hard working servers, manager and co-owned Larry Roth. They are welcoming, friendly and accommodating, trying to seat people where they wish to be seated, etceteras.

Partner and Executive Chef John Kekalos renders an enterprising menu of Continental American cuisine supported by significant Spanish influences, meaning multiple choices of tapis, braced by traditional Spanish specialties. But overall, kitchen performances are decidedly uneven.

Peruse the tapis menu to start. Portions offer substantial samplings. Among the twenty seasonal items is a respectable, finely diced, crabmeat dish deftly stuffed into jacket of mildly tangy, bright red piquillo peppers seductively dusted with fresh herbs, lemon allioli and capers. Two shrimp entities are excellent: sizzling garlicky shrimp gently brushed in lemon butter, sprinkled with chili flakes and chives, and the pithy, tastily grilled, honey shrimp sensibly balanced by lemon and capers, wafting a fragrant bouquet of garlic.

On the downside, however, tapis selections include examples that lack light flavors or weigh as heavy as lead. Avoid the freely touted Albondigas -- lamb meatballs proffered so puckeringly sour we thought perhaps it might be spoiled meat that smelled and tasted so high. Nevertheless, it is camouflaged somewhat by a surfeit of spices. Grilled baby lamb chops didn't fare well either. Talk about uneven -- one chop is juicy and flavorsome, another mummified and a third barely passable.

Main courses are consistently reliable. As an aficionado of Spain's favorites like paella, I am pleased to report Barna's interpretation is thoroughly original, far more interesting than the typical version. Brimming with rich, creamy saffron risotto, it's sensitively fused with savory rock shrimp, chicken, chorizo and deep green peas, a delicious admixture rendered in gleaming huge white bowls. For some other entree rely on the trimmed, well-marbled, tender, naturally juicy New York shell steak cooked the way ordered. It's complimented by garlic rapini and sherry-glazed portabello. Wild mushroom orzo sounds singularly engaging.

Of the uninspired desserts, abstain from the poorly executed, greasy fried, Spanish doughnuts, under a shovel of powdery cinnamon and crystallized sugar.

Wines are agreeably matched to the fare and drinks are poured with a generous hand. Tapis prices range $6 to $12 each; entrees $19 to $22. Barna accepts reservations and major credit cards.

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