Sheldon Landwehr: Scoup du Jour

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The Landwehr Report

October 24, 2006

Manhattan's countless French bistro's range in quality from red hot to blue-cold. Now comes forth a handsome, glowing, multitudinous newcomer christened Papillon. It's favorably rooted at 22 East 54 Street. Unfortunately, marginal cooking is a distressing letdown. Surprisingly, the fare is prepared by Tony Shek, an Executive Chef whose background supports a healthy track-record, including working the stoves at Cafe Luxenburg and Odean. Because of kitchen apathy, Papillon has all the appeal of second-rate French cuisine, and nothing on earth is as sad as second-rate French cooking.

Not that this flaw has cut down on the popularity of this arresting duplex venue. Day and night there is a largely trendy bar crowd, and tables are turned-over as quickly as they are emptied. Servers outfitted in black, have their hands full keeping pace.

Salads, be they appetizers or entrees, might well have been schlepped-in from a neighborhood delicatessen, so commonplace and encumberd are they with dressing. Crispy Calamari is a misnomer, arriving instead dreary and limp, accompanied by trite tarter sauce and an admixture of house mayonnaise. This dish will be especially disappointing to anyone who loves the briny-fresh aroma of uniformly fast-fried mounds of golden-brittle calamari rings.

On the flip side, it's been a long time since I have enjoyed such illustrious steak tartar (available as a starter or entree), so deliciously spiced and distinctively Parisienne, crowned with a quivering quail egg. Other admirable offerings include an assortment of the freshest iced East and West coast oysters and plump shrimp cocktails rendered from the Raw Oyster Bar.

An otherwise acceptable fish of the day--striped bass was served dried out from overcooking, served atop a mound of tasty mashed potatoes. Calves liver is a casualty of over-sautéing and being smothered by onion, turnip, radish confit.

At a recent dinner the ample portion of suitably grilled New York skirt steak was flaversome but tough and unyieldingly chewy. Nevertheless, it came generously accompanied by excellent, greaseless fries as well as an excellent Béarnaise dipping sauce.

Moules Frites Mariniere, bore no trace of the white wine and herbs it was supposed to accommodate.

There are, however, three good desserts that were a cut above the others -- the lusty and singular banana strudel sided with rich coconut ice cream, the wonderfully light, real mouth-puckering lemon tart, and the good-old-days favorite, crepes Suzete.

Among Papillon's varied menus is one providing eight or ten different egg main courses as well as an after nine Brasserie Menu. Entree prices average $19 to $34.50, not so shabby, if the food was good. On the other hand, the relatively reliable worldly catalog of wines, including wine specials of the day are priced at elevated levels. I recommend choosing one of the 22 frosty beers on tap. Aside from being more economical, it goes very well with this type of diverse fare.

Papillon is open for lunch and dinner. Weekend brunch is available 11 AM to 4 PM. Accepts reservations and major credit cards. Telephone: (212) 754-9006.

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