JUST SO SO

Bella Brava, a caliginous, gloomy, rough and rustic restaurant in downtown St. Petersburg, Florida, specializes in Italian fare. Unfortunately, commonplaceness is underscored because it is in an area with Italian eateries of general merit.

Though seafood here is sufficiently fresh and starts out with reasonably good ingredients, too many heavy complicated preparations mar its quality. Many dishes turn to gimmickry on the plate, in view of ambitions overreaching the capacity of the kitchen. For instance, Mahi-Mahi is a casualty of aggressive lemon drenching, thus devastating an otherwise promising main course. A thick cut of blushing pink salmon, requested to be cooked naked except for a brush of butter, is a better option, even though it suffered from overcooking that quickly dried it out (a fate fish here generally experience).

Dressed-down servers are perfunctory in slapping down the pedestrian grub on bare tables, which incidentally, are in keeping with the blasé ambience. Walls lined with banquettes flank tables and chairs, and typical shadowy lighting, embraces the all-in-all characteristic dreariness.

One needs a hand computer to keep track of the excessively extensive a la carte bill-of-fare, whose small print united with drab lighting further renders it a hazardous challenge, choked with pitfalls to be avoided. Choosing a menu item be it an appetizers, antipasto, salad, soup, Italian sandwiches, pasta, pizza, meat, seafood or side dishes tends to be a daunting task.

Skip right over the ordinary starters for better than average weightless, pale-gold, fragile, fried calamari flavorfully springy yet tender. The chef's full flavored Tuscany-style humus puts most others to shame. Try this spread over their homemade, thin-crusted, crispy- crunchy pizza dough triangles.

When choosing from among the broad selection of earthy pastas, plain dishes are best. Always beware of capriciously festooned concoctions. It's hard to go wrong, however, ordering something built on a foundation of butter and garlic or a subtle topping of a sauce of your own choosing. Nevertheless, be sure to request the kitchen to cook the pasta extra al dente, consequently eschewing any gluey renditions. Don't press your luck with the kitchen. And steer clear of the array of desserts. Expect them to be without exception, disastrously dull, soggy, unrewarding.

A tolerably decent wine list offers a number of bargains.

Entree prices range from about $16.95 to $29.95 So while the food here is navigable, there's better Italian food to be enjoyed elsewhere for the price.

No Stars. Bella Brava, 515 Central Avenue, St. Petersburg, Florida. Phone: 727-895-5515. Open for lunch and dinner.

May 22, 2007

PRESCRIBED EATING

By Sheldon Landwehr

WELCOME TO OUR CITY GUIDE: TORONTO GUIDE 2007

TORONTO'S RESTAURANT SCENE

District: Downtown

FRAN'S RESTAURANT....Both branches of FRAN'S are invitingly appointed. They are wildly popular for award winning burgers, apple pies, rice puddings, salad dressings, being open 24 hours and for the memories shared by its patrons and staff. Few restaurants have been able to say that they have stood the test of time having been operateing consistently for over 65 years--a stalwart tradition since 1940. Visit Fran's web-site at www.fransrestauarant.com . Located at 200 Victoria St. 416-304-0085, and 20 College Street 416-923-9867.

SIX STEPS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE…At Six Steps the formula is quite simple. Six steps to incomparability. 1. Incredible food. 2. Sophisticated Wine List. 3. Exceptional Service. 4. Distinctive Décor. 5. Alluring Ambiance. 6. A Je Ne Sais Quoi. The Menu offers plenty to make the mouth water. Try appetizers such as the Grilled Black Tiger Shrimp and Entrees like the Pan Seared Artic Char with Nova Scotia lobster. Located at 55 Colborne Street. 416-504-4800. Or visit www.sixstepsrestaurant.com .

IRISH EMBASSY PUB & GRILL…Located in the heart of the Financial District, and minutes away from the Entertainment orb, The Irish Embassy Pub and Grill is renowned as being one of Toronto's best destinations for exceptional homemade food. They offer a large selection of draft beers and cocktails. Set in a magnificent old bank building built in 1873, this upscale Irish Pub is a popular venue for business lunches and parties, and is also a favorite with the after-work crowd and the pre-game rush. Located at 49 Young Street. 416-866-8282. Or visit www.irishembassypub.com .

P.J. O'Brien IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT…Toronto may be a bit short on Irish pubs, but P.J O'Brien's Irish Pub and Restaurant helps fill the gap. The upstairs Fireplace Bar is a great venue for any type of party or event. Tucked away behind the King Edward Hotel, this charming Irish pub is conveniently situated close to the ACC, Hummingbird Center and other major attractions. They offer traditional pub fare, but the best of the dishes are the Irish specialties, accompanied by a premium selection of draft beers, wines and spirits. Every Friday and Saturday from 9pm, they have live bands playing a selection of traditional Celtic and contemporary music. For more information visit www.pjobrien.com.com .
Located at 39 Colborne Street. 416-815-7562.

TOM JONES STEAKHOUSE…Approaching this historic 1800 building with its distinctive hand carved oak entranceway you enter into an intimate, elegant setting. Soft lighting from natural gas burning chandeliers, leaded glass windows and high oak paneling - a combination of extraordinary charm, warmth, friendliness and relaxation. Tom Jones Steakhouse has been an institution in Toronto since 1966. With an impressive menu of steak and seafood specialties, an award-wining wine list and amiable, effective staff, provides a dining experience that will be enjoyed, savored, and remembered long after your party has become a cherished memory. In short, both the mood and the food succeed at Tom Jones. Located at 17 Leader Lane. 416-366-6583. Or visit www.tomjonessteakhouse.com .

District: The Beach

SHANANIGANS EATERY & TAPS…Beer lovers are advised to take notice of the unique selection of imported and draught beer's at this location. Shananigans boast the freshest dishes in the Beach area with a delightful patio to pass the time, as well as people watching.
Located at 1842 Queen St. E. Unit # 103. 416-693-2300.

MICHELLE'S BEACH HOUSE…Michelle's Beach House is the newest member of Michelle Gebharts expanding dining dynasty. Enter through the red and black facade to a pale teak and birch wood interior, walls arranged with black and white photos, and an eye-popping granite bar with comfy bar stools that is a must for a pre-dinner drink. The French menu includes such delights as Bouillabaisse, with traditional assorted fresh fish and shellfish and Foie de Veux, calves liver served on a bed of garlic mashed potatoes. Their 87 seat patio is very popular in the summer months. Located at 1955 Queen Street. 416-693-4454. Or visit www.michellesbeachhouse.ca .

GREEN EGGPLANT…The Green Eggplant is a favorite of people who like a casual yet upscale warm family restaurant with a fun menu. This eatery's claim to fame is such classics as excellent grilled sandwiches, supple pastas, burgers, fish and juicy steaks. The atmosphere is welcoming and the prices are affordable. Located at 1968 Queen Street. 416-913-3361.

District: Yorkville

HEMINGWAY'S RESTAURANT…Celebrating their 30 th year in business, this restaurant located in trendy Yorkville, offers a unique menu with the likes of Escargot and Spicy Thai Chicken. Hemingway's is equipped with 5 sought-after outdoor patios and boast 18 different beers on tap. Located at 142 Cumberland Street. 416-968-2828. Or visit www.hemingways.to .

CANTINE BISTRO & BAR…Developed by acclaimed restaurateur Joe Bersani, Cantine is an upscale restaurant with savory dishes. Among the favorites here are the Classic Crab Cakes, New York Strip Lion, and the Pan Seared filet of Atlantic Salmon. The décor changes monthly with a various artist featured in the dinning room. Located at 138 Avenue Road. 416-923-4822. Or visit www.cantine.ca .

IL POSTO…This pleasant, classy restaurant has considerably brightened Toronto's dining scene. And it's located in one of Toronto's most stylish shopping areas. Il Posto offers a warm atmosphere and is a great getaway from the local hustle. Treat yourself to such menu items as Vitello Tonnnato or the Fettuccine Con Salmone. Servers are friendly and helpful.

Located at 148 Yorkville Avenue. 416-968-0469. www.Ilposto.ca .

District: St. Lawrence

HOT HOUSE CAFÉ…Famous for their award winning Sunday Brunch, Hot House Café is sure to delight with their everyday fresh ingredients. The menu specializes in thin crust pizza's, seafood, delegate and fragrant rack of Lamb, and generous amounts of succulent steak. The fare is complimented by a wine list that is sensibly priced and smart. You may also want to try their exceptional Martini's. Located at 35 Church Street. 416-366-7800. www.hothousecafe.com .

District: Entertainment

EAST!…Awarded “Best Restaurant Design”, by Canadian Interiors Magazine, East offers a wide range of Oriental Cuisine. Popular favorites include All Day Dim Sum, Asian Street Food, and a combination of Thia and Chinese delectable dishes. East has evolved into a trendy destination delivering first class Martini's in an easy to get to locale. Dine on the beautiful patio, or reserve a private party room. East! Is just steps from the Osgoode subway station and located at 240 Queen St. W. 416-351-3278.

District: Chinatown

BRIGHT PEARL…Located in the heart of Toronto's Chinatown beside Kensington Market, Bright Pearl Seafood Restaurant offers exciting and exotic comestibles that is sure to please. The fish tank at the front, home to live lobster, Vancouver crabs and bass, is a model of freshness. This is truly a seafood lover's haven. Another high-point here is the production and serving of Peking duck, indeed a flashy sight to behold. Other specialties include Jumbo Shrimp with Vegetable and lip-puckering Crispy Lemon Chicken. Located at 346-348 Spadina Ave. 416-979-3988.

District: The Distillery

The Boiler House…Offering a contemporary Canadian menu, this award winning restaurant, very much in vogue, is located in a breath taking industrial chic setting has been voted as Toronto's best venue for live Blues and Jazz. The Boiler House seats up to 700 persons and is available for private parties. For more information visit their extensive web-site at www.boilerhouse.ca . Located at 55 Mill Street. 416-203- 2121

District: The Esplanade

THE OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY…Originally a Blacksmith Shop, built in 1898, this huge old warehouse was converted into a 600 seat restaurant in 1971, filled with a fabulous collection of antiques and truly unique artifacts and is now known as the famous "Old Spaghetti Factory." Enjoy their numerous spaghetti dishes and other Italian favorites. Needless to say, The Old Spaghetti Factory has a large and loyal following. Located at 54 The Esplanade. 416-864-9761. www.oldspaghettifactory.net .

District: Rosedale

1055 RESTAURANT…Touted as Toronto's new big thing in culinary art, 1055 promises to make your dinning experience a memorable one. It's best just to relax and enjoy the visually stunning dishes that are served with care and the taste does not disappoint. Try the half roasted Duck or the Blue Crab and fish salad. Servers are reliable guides to the quality and specialties of the evening's offerings. Located at 1055 Yonge Street. 416-482-8485. www.1055.ca.

SPRING ROLLS…Spring Rolls is Toronto's most celebrated chain of restaurants with 5 locations proffering pleasing environments and a consistently remarkable array of adventures in exotic cuisine's, along with service that is prompt and efficient. Indulge your senses with a unique take on Thai, Chinese, and Vietnamese cooking. Spring Rolls is found at the following locations:

40 Dundas St. W
416-585-2929

85 Front St. E
416-365-3649

45 Eglinton Ave. E
416-322-7655

693 Younge St
416-972-7655

5100 Erin Mills PKWY
905-607-7655

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