The Landwehr Report

Tampa, FL
January 27, 2009

The Ordinary

By Sheldon Landwehr

Bear in mind that the assets of Sam Seltzer's Steakhouse in Tampa, Florida (part of a sizeable chain) are not culinary, for its steak is just ordinary and its all-you-can-eat barbecued  ribs  taste reheated..  But it is a widespread, warm, friendly restaurant, fitted-out with roomy, cushioned wood booths and typical traditional rustic steakhouse decorations.

Despite its vast size, split into three dining regions, the Tampa locale is a quiet oasis,  relaxing and good for conversational enthusiasts.  And the  budget-priced menu doesn't hinder either.

Besides steaks, the bill-of-fare offers such entrees as rack of lamb, chicken, grilled pork chops, lobster tails, several other seafood dishes and more.  Of course, few items would win Blue Ribbon prizes, but main courses only average $11.99 to $29.99.

The most unpalatable dishes from the kitchen are the gristly, fatty, tough and dry T-bone steak and the heavily over-salted slab of roast beef.  Nevertheless, if all else fizles, fill-up on the hot tasty rolls.  An accompaniment of thick steak fried potatoes would rate very high marks, if  the kitchen wouldn't sprinkle them with a shovel of salt.

A heady selection of desserts, wines and frosty brews are likewise on hand.  But it is the accommodating  servers and the mood, not the food that succeeds at Sam Seltzer's Steakhouse.

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• The Landwehr Report, November, 2009
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