Sheldon Landwehr: Scoup du Jour

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The Landwehr Report

September 5, 2006

Newly established, Hawaii Sushi, 1477 Second Avenue (75-76 Sts.), 212-717-1780, has a slightly modified storefront as well as a slightly modified menu as compared to other characteristic Japanese restaurants, but traditional Japanese similarities such as bamboo seating flanking bare marbleized tables outweigh the differences. Nevertheless, Hawaii Sushi, built with spring, summer and fall in mind by installing folding frontal glass doors fully opened to the street -- weather permitting, of course.

Dishes here yield an abundance of ambitious sushi/sashimi via impeccably fresh raw fish along with enough cooked specialties to provide and placate nearly all palates.

Hawaii Sushi's small tidy sushi bar is attended by an adroit artisan skillfully plying his vocation while also supplying patrons with a dab of preparational theatre .

Limp with the last of the summer heat, we welcomed the restorative powers of good chilled seaweed salad commingled with a zesty sesame dressing. Then the kitchen arranged cool tartar's of blush pink salmon and rosy tuna, albeit too bland.

It would be hard to imagine more suitable temperate-weather fare than the delicate and brightly fresh sushi and sashimi entree combinations than that prepared here, and regularly available at the bar and tables. These special coolly refreshing main courses served with soup or salad, include eight piece assortments ($15.95 to $17.95) of fatty tuna ( toro ), eel, crab-sticks, adventurous uni , sake salmon, while tuna, yellowtail, mackerel and flying fish, to mention a few on hand. What's more, the decoratively accomplished combinations hold a good-deal of eye- appeal. A worthy contribution, not inscribed on the menu, but clearly deserving attention is the savory, rich fatty tuna toro splashed with sweet flavorsome mango.

Among hot-dishes, favorites are the i nutty-flavored shumai dumplings, with its wrap of airy lightness melting on the tongue, the dish described as soft shell crab, deep-fried, golden, greaseless, fragile and crisp. Crunchy shrimp Tempura, as well as Miso Nasu --excellently grilled eggplant under a soothing miso sauce are likewise worthwhile. On the flip side, however , the dish labeled Goyoza , Japanese fried dumplings are a heavy tasteless mistake.

For more conventional tastes there are two soups: basic, aromatic clear yet smoky tasting miso broth or the heartier shrimp and vegetable.

Beef Necimaki , thin slices of tender cooked beef wrapped around sweetly tart pineapple bestowing a mild, mellow tang, is a capital alternative for non-sushi eaters. Tempura provides another. Shrimp, vegetable or chicken are dipped in the lightest of batter and fried crisp outside and fresh tasting inside. Teriyaki Hawaii-style, also offers a choice of grilled shrimp or sliced beef or sliced chicken. Each is a safe bet, although altered ingredients are put into practice here, proffering other than the usual found in more traditional Japanese venues. A tasting of all three proved to be good, but we preferred the juicy sliced rib-eye beef steak.

Good frosty Japanese beer and warm or cold sake travels well with all. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Cooked entrees range $8.95 to $16.95. Accepts major credit cards.

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